The weather was perfect on July 1st in downtown Middleton. It was 76 degrees at 5:30 pm and a few degrees cooler in the shade. As the city has developed over the past several years, a mini picnic area and park has organically come into being.
Middleton, Wisconsin abuts Madison directly to the west as both are situated at the Driftless Region’s Eastern flank.
The Driftless stops at Middleton’s border, but traces of its geological character remain in the Pheasant Branch Conservancy, The UW Arboratum, and the four-lake descending arc of Lakes Mendota, Monona, Waubesa, and Kegonsa.
But back to Middleton. Due in part to some new construction and some refurbishment of old buildings into new lofts, downtown Middleton has grown itself a restaurant district of varied and complimentary tastes. Within a three-block radius we have Japanese, Hawaiian Poke, Thai, Italian, Retro 50’s Americana, Louisiana Cajun, Bar Burgers, Irish Pub Cuisine, and (no lie) a National Mustard Museum. I’ve probably forgot a few! Also noteworthy: not a franchise or fast-food joint among the lot.
Longtable Beer Café anchors the square on its southwest corner. Their large, wall sized windows were open to let in the summer breeze. Longtable, as the name suggests, populates their seating arrangement with long, thick wood tables that harken back to, yes, picnic tables, but more specifically the heavy tables one would imagine inside a lumberjack camp, although these are hewn smooth and edged with polished iron. (Created from reclaimed barn wood!) They line the interior, fill a side outdoor café, and overlook (with barstools) the shared picnic area across the lane. They are upscale in food and drink offerings, so put the picnic table image away: no bees or chewing gum here. Longtable offers grass-fed beef burgers; beer cheese soup; microbrew and import bottled beers; and charcuterie platters. They’re focus is on sharable foods. Thus the long tables. Thus the variety. A tasting room for rent. Tap beer flights to try. Mix and match a six-pack of import and microbrew beers.
On July 1st during the dinner hour, sixty some people of all ages enjoyed food and entertainment courtesy of a small stage and singers performing folk and classic radio standards. As I watched and took a few photos, the singer broke into a rendition of “Brown Eyed Girl.” Kids danced. A half dozen people brought their well-behaved dogs. Through the gentle urging of Longtable, neighboring businesses, and the Downtown Middleton Association this little square park has become the focal point of the downtown area.
A historical marker indicates this parcel of grass in the city’s center was the location of Middleton’s first livery stable incorporated in 1893. It provided horses and buggies for tourism, local doctors, and the fire department. Now it is known as Stone Horse Green “Where Good Neighbors Gather.” It shares this center square with a still-operating tavern (and former bowling alley) named “The Village Green.” At least six of the restaurants bordering Stone Horse Green, including both Village Green and Longtable provide outdoor café seating.
Fast forward to Thursday, September 16th: the weather is still great; the day’s blue sky transitioned into a salmon and ruby sunset; and our little food court has doubled in size. A sign designates it as “Pick Your Picnic,” meaning: “Yes, it is okay to bring food here from any of the neighboring restaurants.” People mix-and-match. People bring stuff from home. It’s all good. Middleton’s town council agreed to have Hubbard Ave able to be blocked on Thursday nights and turned into foot-traffic only. Kids and kids-at-heart draw rainbow chalk-pictures in what normally are diagonal parking spots. And the little improv-stage has doubled in size, doubled in height, and added sound and lighting capabilities – September 16 was a Jazz-fest weekend.
I asked Longtable how things developed over the summer, and what the outlook may be through fall and winter of 2021. Matt and Andrea Van Nest are owners and managers of Middleton’s Longtable as well as Madison’s Brasserie V in the Monroe Street neighborhood. Both are longtime Middleton residents. I met with Matt first. He described how they have been running Brasserie V for a decade and a half. (The “V” in the name is not the Roman numeral for five, rather, “V” is for “Van Nest”) Once well established, they decided to open Longtable – their second café – a little more than four years ago. “So Longtable still feels like a new restaurant even after almost five years,” Matt explained. “Plus, Covid sorta put everything on hold…” At the mention of the “C” word we both groaned. Understandably when the history of all restaurants is written, these past 18 months will feel like a gloomy blank.
Matt informed me that his wife, Andrea, in addition to co-managing the two cafes, was also the head of the Downtown Middleton Association. He invited her to join us and they continued to recall the history of choosing a spot to open Longtable in downtown Middleton: The location here at 7545 Hubbard Avenue made the most sense, being close to home for them. Madison after all, isn’t necessarily a giant city, but a commute from Middleton (west side) to Monroe Street (in central Madison – approaching the UW campus) uses up a good 20-minute chunk of time; and even more during traffic hours. A new, second café location anywhere else in the area would double the drive time for the two owner/managers. “Why load yourself up with more time stuck in a car?” I gathered. I asked if Longtable was their new HQ, but rather than choose one business over the other, they assured me their attentions were not unbalanced. “I have my laptop open here,” Andrea said, “but I’m doing an equal amount of work for Brasserie V as I am for Longtable.”
“The bandshell will have its back to Village Green (the restaurant),” Matt described to me. Andrea added that Electronic Theatre Controls have been commissioned to build the stage and sound system. (ETC is a Middleton based company that designs and constructs theatrical lighting with clients both here and abroad. They are also a Stone Horse Sponsor.) There have been a few sculptures designed and proposed for the sight as well, including some actual kid-sized stone horses. Andrea showed me her phone: Stone Horse Green has its own website (stonehorsegreen.org) with a history, mission statement, and proposed future. The development began back in 2015 addressing the need for a bit of greenspace in the center of town. The square also offers access to boutiques, salons, and artisan crafts: opportunities to stroll and window shop, if nothing else, all in a horse-shoe of three blocks. The vibe is relaxed and not-at-all requiring the personal energy expenditure it takes to go up and down a sprawling near-suburban shopping mall. And it’s outdoors.
In 2019 & 2020, everything had to go outdoors. Longtable closed their indoor seating for a time and switched to carry-out and delivery only – as did many restaurants nationwide. Stone Horse Green became the “place across the street” that people took their take-out, sat, and ate in the sun and the breeze. “Last year there were no picnic tables,” Andrea informed me, “this year, we asked the Director of Community Development, Abby Attoun, for help.” They brought over the tables, and later with the help of the Middleton Public Library (two blocks away on the same street) they organized the Middleton StoryWalk – a walking tour with 24 stops where parents and kids follow a map and read part of a storybook at each location. In fact, the Summer StoryWalk was successful enough to bring back. Another is going on right now, as of this writing, in October 2021. All keeping in mind the necessity of having events outside for 2020 and 2021, while also keeping people focused on downtown Middleton, the Stone Horse Green, and neighborhood businesses. This is how a community can fight Covid: subtly with small steps. StoryWalk, kids and parents, outdoors, picnic tables, music, carry-out, and yes, still following the personal distance guidelines – all of it contributes.
2021 has settled into this tentative medium as businesses inch back toward normal. Restaurant staff wear masks because they’re the ones who see the most variety of people; customers wear masks until they start eating; and good weather requires open doors, windows, and garage walls whenever possible. Looking forward to late fall, Matt describes adding outdoor fire-pit tables. “We had a few last year and people loved them. This year we’re adding three more.”
On a previous visit I tried a grass-fed beef burger, a salad, and a bowl of beer-cheese soup. My skill isn’t much for restaurant food-reviews. But overall I find grass-fed beef to be denser and more meaty than regular burgers. Like, you take a bite, chew, and say to yourself, “Hm, this cow was eating the good stuff.” I suppose they are similar to buffalo burgers in that regard. I’m also a nut for beer-cheese soup, especially when the beer is a tad darker. This meal was delicious but didn’t make me want to crash afterward. Lord help me, it might have even been a tad bit… healthy! Eek! I complimented Matt and Andrea on the burger, soup, and salad.
Matt is excited for the Oktoberfest Beer season to give way to early winter and the Barrel Aged Stouts to get their time on the shelves. I admitted that Oktoberfest Beers were my favorite seasonal flavor and while Matt agreed those are good, he encouraged me to try the Barrel Aged Stouts. “I love this time of year,” Matt confided. “If fall could just last eight months – go for eight months of the year, well, that would be heaven for me.”
Matt and Andrea take the community gathering concept seriously and have endeavored to infuse this philosophy though everything in Longtable’s physical space. (And to be perfectly honest, they work toward the same goal across town on Monroe Street too.) It is my impression that each business surrounding Stone Horse Green reflects back upon it their influence. Certainly, some more than others. Each restaurant is unique in its history and unto itself. Longtable anchors a corner and they strive to embody sharing and community, and to find a way to complement their neighbors rather than simply “get eyeballs on the merch and get butts in seats.” After all, when the band shell is finally built, everyone with their doors open will be able to hear the music.
Thanks for reading. Check out Longtable’s web site and Stone Horse Green’s webpage. Also downtownmiddleton.com has information and schedules for the Public Library sponsored StoryWalk.
By Matt Schumann | Photos: Matt Schumann